Dining

Food Forum Is a Meal for the Mind

Thought leaders in the dynamic world of food journalism will discuss the evolution of their profession next Wednesday at a lunchtime forum called The Changing Story of American Home Cooking.

 

 

 
Bay scallops are again being shipped to the mainland after a slowdown in the market two weeks ago. On Nov. 30, several local handlers of wholesale seafood reported having difficulty finding markets on the mainland, with some shellfishermen told to stay out of the waters until demand increased.

As of last week, lines to the mainland had been reopened.

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A number of years ago, I planted my first vegetable garden on the Vineyard. One of the first things I put in the ground was kale. As the other vegetables barely limped along, the kale plants produced heartily and provided us with many family meals, giving me hope that maybe one day I might find success as a vegetable gardener after all.

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Parsnips, celery root and house-made bacon swam alongside the “usual suspects” in Matthew Safranek’s clam chowder at the 27th Great Chowder Contest in Edgartown on Saturday.

Mr. Safranek, a chef at Atria, joined 10 other contestants in the annual Christmas throwdown, a fundraiser for the Red Stocking Fund that has been sponsored by radio station WMVY for the past 10 years.

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With the cold, dark days of winter on the way, Edgartown just lost one source of solace: Espresso Love, one of the few year-round places in town to get a latte and a muffin, closed for the winter Monday.

Owner T.J. McManus said that the restaurant, which serves food, and seasonally wine and beer along with the titular espresso, will close until the spring for needed repairs and renovations. The floors need to be replaced and the roof needs to be fixed, he said, and improvements are slated for the counters and the kitchen.

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By the end of the week, stock, lard, foie gras, Italian sausage, bratwurst, breakfast sausage and rich salami would be plentiful around the premises of caterer Kitchen Porch. But on Tuesday morning, it was all bones, soft fat, lean fat and dark red pieces of lean flank meat, neatly stacked in individual piles in front of Francois Vecchio.

Mr. Vecchio is a world-renowned master of artisanal meat, and this week he tutored nearly a dozen farmers, chefs and amateurs in the ways of the fine art of salumi making.

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