Port Hunter is big part of revitalization of Edgartown's nightlife.
Ray Ewing

Not Your Great-Grandfather's Edgartown

At night the side streets of Edgartown go dark and quiet. But just a few blocks away on Main street, the beat of late night dining and dancing has reinvigorated the town.</p>

At 10 p.m. on a Thursday night the side streets of Edgartown go dark and quiet, the soft lamp lights of old whaling captains’ houses setting a mood of the past.

But just a few blocks away on Main street, the pulse of a new day beckons, where the beat of late night dining and dancing has invigorated a town whose energy has at times been compared to a widow’s walk.

Main street is now hopping with new restaurants and thriving music scene.
Ray Ewing
Main street is now hopping with new restaurants and thriving music scene.
Ray Ewing

This is no longer your great-great-great grandfather’s Edgartown.

At the Port Hunter, dining tables are moved to make room for musician John Beninghof, while across the street patrons at the Covington watch the scene from their sidewalk seating. A trio of women walk down the street debating between going to the Atlantic or the Seafood Shanty based on the music. They duck into Summer Shades, one of the several retail shops that is still open late at night. When they emerge with two men in tow, they decide on the Wharf.

“The addition of deejays and live bands has driven a younger crowd in and kept them later in the evening,” said Erin Ready, executive director of the Edgartown Board of Trade.

Elizabeth Rothwell, regional director of marketing for the Harbor View Hotel and the Kelley House agreed, saying the closing of Flatbread and its music scene has also driven additional traffic into Edgartown.

Trying to score big in front of Pizza di Napoli.
Ray Ewing
Trying to score big in front of Pizza di Napoli.
Ray Ewing

“It’s definitely pushing traffic to Oak Bluffs and Edgartown,” she said. “And forcing businesses to think about including live music in their offerings.”

The Kelley House has incorporated live music into its three-year-old bar, the Wave Pool. A small patio space in back of the hotel and next to the pool was transformed into a outdoor bar that serves frosted cocktails and hosts musicians on Tuesdays and Thursdays.

“I wish we could sit outside year-round,” said Ms. Rothwell. “It’s about capitalizing on this amazing weather, being able to watch people coming and going, take in architecture, breathe in sea air, it’s definitely part of what people expect in the experience of being on the Vineyard.”

Behind the Bookstore, the cafe created to help keep Edgartown Books afloat, has also capitalized on the summer weather. Jeffrey Sudikoff and his wife Joyce bought the bookstore five years ago, later adding the restaurant and coffee shop.

“The Main street restaurant scene is greatly improved, and we’re happy to be a part of that,” Mr. Sudikoff said. “When Port Hunter opened it was a terrific thing for night time promenading in Edgartown.”

Covington opened this summer on Main street.
Ray Ewing
Covington opened this summer on Main street.
Ray Ewing

The Port Hunter, owned by brothers Patrick and Ted Courtney, opened in 2012. They recently opened a second restaurant across the street, the Covington.

But any full promenade of Edgartown includes stopping at BTB for a drink under the large canopy that keeps the yard open rain or shine.

“Customers enjoy coming and sitting in the backyard of Main street,” Mr. Sudikoff said. “Out here the summer is short. We will sit outdoors even if it’s a little cool or a little wet.”

While more bars and restaurants continue to pop up, the mainstays have remained strong, evolving to include music and outdoor seating. Jeffrey Voorhees has managed the Wharf Pub for close to 25 years.

“Before the Coogans took it over, there was no nightlife,” Mr. Voorhees said. Now, as the day darkens, a second bar is set up in the back room and music pulses out over a crowded dance floor. The Wharf first began experimenting with music in the early 2000s, he said.

“There was just not much nightlife,” he said. “After we started, the Shanty jumped on.”

Around the block at the Seafood Shanty, theme parties bring in traffic on Thursdays. Last week it was Christmas in July. Managers Jeff Santos and Luis Arias said the crowd at the Shanty is usually in their mid-twenties.

Who you calling a newcomer? Seafood Shanty is still rocking after 50 years.
Ray Ewing
Who you calling a newcomer? Seafood Shanty is still rocking after 50 years.
Ray Ewing

“It’s a young scene,” Mr. Luis said. Catering to that crowd, the Shanty favors deejays over live music. They’ve added three harborside decks in response to the outdoor dining trend. And however Edgartown changes, the Shanty will change with it, Mr. Arias said.

“There are a lot of new places that have come and gone, we’ve been here for 50 years,” he said.

And between the restaurants and bars on Main street, it’s not just T-shirt shops and souvenir stops. Rachel Enriquez, manager at Backwater Trading Co., said the shop usually attracts serious shoppers though they do have “bus tour days” where tourists come through and browse, but often don’t buy.

“We don’t carry things that say Martha’s Vineyard . . . . Though we do have a gift for everyone, it’s not a souvenir shop, it’s a lifestyle shop,” she said.

Mikel Hunter’s eponymous independent boutique (formerly PikNik) moved from Oak Bluffs to Edgartown five years ago. His boutique is also a studio show room, featuring artwork as well as fashion. He moved the shop to Edgartown after a pop-up shop in Boston introduced him to an untapped Edgartown customer pool.

Sidewalks are bustling with visitors.
Ray Ewing
Sidewalks are bustling with visitors.
Ray Ewing

“You get people coming from Nantucket for the day on boats or planes,” Mr. Hunter said. It’s the saturation of food, music, hotels and shopping that makes Edgartown a destination, he said.

Mr. Hunter’s boutique is next door to Stina Sayre’s Edgartown shop. Ms. Sayre, a well-known Island designer, is established in Vineyard Haven and made her debut in Edgartown two seasons ago.

While Mr. Hunter’s boutique is open seasonally, his carefully curated stock looks meant to be worn year round.

“A leather shearling vest is just as enticing in the heat of August,” he said. “Great stuff is great stuff no matter what time of year it is.”

Like many shopkeepers in Edgartown, Mr. Hunter keeps his door open until 10 p.m. taking advantage of the second wave of shoppers, a relaxed, well-fed crowd.

“When it starts to get dark around 7 p.m. and your lights are on, it’s very alluring,” he said.

Comments

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 08/02/2016 - 23:53

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Bob Edgartown

Behind The Bookstore Cafe is the best thing to happen to coffee in Edgartown. Eating under the open air tent is a mini vacation unto itself. The tent is a very clever design and looks like sails from a ship. The Wave bar at the Kelley House is another great hidden gem in town and a welcome change to the mix. Both places are easy to miss as they do not stand out which is the added appeal.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 08/03/2016 - 14:40

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Gayle Turowski New York

I have always loved Edgartown and have stayed there for over 30 years on vacation. But with all the modern changes ie; restaurants, coffee shops, gutted and enlarged Captains Houses, restaurants that have dining on the sidewalks (don't understand that atmosphere), the town fathers should not forget the rich history and original charm of the town. The town is starting to lose it's quaintness and eventually will be lost forever. It will be just another Hampton, LI atmosphere. You have already lost the quaint Inns. The Edgartown Inn is one of the last of it's kind. I liked the fact that Edgartown was relatively quiet. Keep the party town in Oak Bluffs and keep Edgartown a classy town. I plan to continue to vacation for a long time to come. But I mourn the loss of the beautiful houses, one by one. The Captains Houses have been lost to the ostentatious displays of wealth, enlargement and the instant landscapes. Sometimes change isn't good. There is no appreciation for history anymore. The generations to come will never know and it will be lost forever. Please keep Edgartown quaint. It's good to slow down especially on vacation.

Diane NJ

Yes I agree. Do not turn Edgartown into the Hamptons (or even into Oak Bluffs). I used to be able to buy great gifts in Edgartown (remember the Tashtego shop?). Now everything is either a crappy gift shop, a cheap t-shirt shop or an uber-trendy shop with useless, ultra-expensive merchandise.

Bringing the young trendoids into town compounds the mistake. The family atmosphere is gone.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 08/03/2016 - 20:42

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Loveitbut Edg

I actually enjoy the pickup in late night options and the new vibrancy in town. However, I do not like servers working from the sidewalks. This is happening at Port Hunter and Covington. Same owners. Now that represents a Hamptons mentality. Respect the limits of your space, don't engage in commerce on publicly owned property, don't snub the health code, and get out of my way because I am headed to my favorite spot. A few tweaks in attitude and this could be good.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 08/04/2016 - 11:40

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Virginia Carroll Gibbs Atlanta, GA.

Never mind my great great great grandfather's Edgartown, it isn't even my father's Edgartown.He grew up on the Vineyard when everyone knew everyone. Even as a child, I spent most summers there and all the shopkeepers knew me and all of my siblings by name.I went there last summer,and it's turning a very expensive tourist trap. My Dad is probably turning over in his grave. Please stop the "progress" before it's too late .

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 08/10/2016 - 11:27

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Diane Union

As a long time (25+ years) visitor, I am not happy about this trend. Everyone wants the young, beautiful and well-heeled to patronize their establishments. But I have found them to be very noisy in the surrounding streets, especially when they emerge sloppy drunk from the clubs. Edgartown will soon be as noisy as Oak Bluffs.

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