Beach Plum crew opens Fish and Rose pop-up restaurant on Kenmare street.
Kayla Foster

Vineyard Brings Some Shuck and Awe to New York City

With the temperature in the low 30s and a wintry mix blowing in off the East River, it was a morning fit for neither man nor beast. And yet a calm but energized feel pervaded as the Beach Plum crew got down to work creating the pop-up restaurant Fish and Rose.

If you have ever paused for a moment before moving in to a spartan dwelling and thought, how am I going to turn this in to a home, you wouldn’t make the cut on the Fish and Rose team. This morning Chris Fischer and his Beach Plum restaurant crew arrived in New York city for a three-week run as pop-up restaurateurs, and they had just seven hours to go from vacant space to first customer.

Chris Fischer and Lee Desrosiers ponder how to create restaurant in seven hours.
Kayla Foster
Chris Fischer and Lee Desrosiers ponder how to create restaurant in seven hours.
Kayla Foster

With the temperature in the low 30’s and a wintry mix blowing in off the East River, it was a morning fit for neither man nor beast. And yet a calm but energized feel pervaded as the crew got down to work.

At 9 a.m. Tolya Ashe, a private chef in New York but with Island connections and a strong back, started off-loading the first van of produce and cooking supplies. At 9:30 a.m. another van arrived and the crew carted in an ice chest filled with 600 oysters, hoisted onto the counter a clam shell fountain usually located in the yard of Mr. Fischer’s grandfather, and turned the music up high. More vans were due soon, bringing supplies from Brooklyn, and the waiters were scheduled to arrive at 1 p.m. for training.

The pop-up restaurant is located at 10 Kenmare street, a busy stretch of road near the Bowery and will be open seven days a week from Dec. 9 through Dec. 30, for dinner only. The block is equal parts imposing wholesale kitchen supply stores and airy cafes serving $12 yogurt.

The event is a Vineyard production in both staff and provisions. Wild oysters from West Tisbury and Katama Bay were trucked down, as was beef, pork and offal from Beetlebung Farm. Chicken, lamb and suckling pig were also on the van, sourced from local Vineyard farms. Oyster shucker Brendan Karalekas, progeny of Agricultural Fair champion shucker Teddy Karalekas, had been brought down, too. When you have oysters that have been growing for three years, you don’t trust them to just any pair of hands.

Even the genesis of the project has Island roots as Bryan Meehan, West Chop coffee impresario, used the Kenmare street venue as a seasonal coffee shop, and brought the locale to the attention of Mr. Fischer.

Wild oysters from West Tisbury and Katama were trucked down to New York city.
Kayla Foster
Wild oysters from West Tisbury and Katama were trucked down to New York city.
Kayla Foster

The Beach Plum group had only decided to do the project a month earlier. Mr. Fischer said the biggest hurdles to setting up shop 300 miles from home were “communications and transportation systems of varying degrees.” Short haul (kitchen to dining room), medium haul (basement storage room to kitchen), and long haul, New York city to Martha’s Vineyard (as food would be continually shipped south for the duration).

The first reservation was for 4:30 p.m. today, but if anyone was worried that Fish and Rose wouldn’t be ready, it didn’t show. As Kathryn Arffa, who was tasked with coordinating the logistics said, “we know that if put our minds to something, we will get it done.”

The 10 Kenmare space has no gas, and therefore no cooking range. An electric griddle would need to be procured. The Bowery still has a few kitchen supply stores left, so that, thankfully, could be locally sourced.

Visit fishandrose.com

Comments

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 12/09/2013 - 22:06

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James Shephard Key West

Inspiring !!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 12/09/2013 - 22:47

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Lauri Bradway Vineyard Haven

LOLOLOL..Some people were asking if I was in the Restaurant business now! No, I am not..I am still in the Antiques business, and the name of my online shop is still FISH & RAVEN. LOLOLOLOLOL

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 12/10/2013 - 00:48

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eating unlocal West Tisbury

I thought Beach Plum was all about the local food movement. Trucking food 300 miles - including a diesel smoke spewing ferry- seems anti local to me. Why didn't they source local products in NYC?

Dana Nunes vineyard haven

Really? You really have a problem with a local guy providing some (probably much needed) juice to island farmers in the winter? Oh, please!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 12/10/2013 - 06:44

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Jim Feiner Chilmark

Awesome, fun and adventurous! Wish I could go! Anyone driving down? Maybe vineyarders should rent a bus!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 12/10/2013 - 08:18

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bob edgartown

Eating unlocal is spot on. Most people are really hypocrites for most of the feel good movements. Look how Al Gore lives and he worry's about global warming. Do as i say not as i do.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 12/10/2013 - 09:51

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Dottie Sullivan Rochester, N.Y.

Go for it Chris and best of luck. Wish we could make it to NYC for the experience. Barry and I loved our meals at The Beach Plum. Happy Holidays!!!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 12/10/2013 - 16:36

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Andrew DC

This is a great idea. I'm letting my NYC friends know about it too. WT oysters are tremendous (but one cannot get them during the summer!)

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 12/10/2013 - 16:44

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Dick Iacovello Vineyard Haven

You should think about Nu Wave ovens, & Nu Wave cooktops, They're Awesome!
NO, I'm not a salesman, but I thought this may help.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 12/10/2013 - 17:55

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Steve Posin San Francisco

I have informed my NY foodie friends.
Still remembering the great food at Ned and Kaila's wedding - best lamb and pork I have ever had.

Good luck with the venture.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 12/10/2013 - 19:41

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J.T.R. Connecticut

The last thing MV needs is a stronger connection to NYC. The island is about escape from metropolitan madness. Adding to my list of reasons to hate the Beachplum/Homeport/Menemsha Inn/Nixon Family.

Vineyard Grandmom Vineyard Haven Ma

Really.....exclusion is not the way to go. Lighten up! Rejoice in a group of young Vineyarders who have the Vineyard spirit! I applaud them !

Sally MV

This is a wonderful story:) Good for the young enterprising chefs from the island! Long term, and from my humble clam digging perspective, this also seems to make perfect sense and really bolsters the reputation of our fair island. The more commerce and interest we can attract from major cities along the east coast and else where - I say the better. But what do I know!? Funny thing about venomous and destructive feelings, sentiments and/or comments - they're typically a reflection of those that spew them. I don't know if I've ever used the word hate in all my 62 years but god bless a man whose heart is full of so much of it. J.T.R, I sincerely hope that you make it back to the Vineyard sometime soon! It's folks like you that truly need the warm embrace of an authentic, sleepy, and humble island like ours.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 12/11/2013 - 08:23

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Andrea Sudbury

Why all the hostility...you naysayers....Good Luck to The Beach Plum!!!! Can you do this in Boston next year?

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 12/11/2013 - 17:39

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Deneen McQueen-Chippari Boston

Love how you keep thinking outside the box! Bring on the creativity! Oh, by the way-they know how to make clean food taste delicious!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 12/12/2013 - 10:48

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Max Veritas The Ether

If they don't have the necessary inspections and permits, they are likely to get issued violations by NYC Health Dept. and NYS Conservation Dept., or perhaps even shut down.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 12/12/2013 - 14:09

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KERRITT TISBURY.MA

"WHAT A DUMP"......I WOULD NOT BE CAUGHT DEAD IN THAT DUMP...EVEN HOUSTOUN SOUP KITCHEN LOOKS FAR BETTER.. TRY SOME PAINT AND BLINDS.
TRY SOUTH BOSTON....
LIVERPOOL....
WHALES....

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 12/13/2013 - 02:53

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Lang New York City

Next time contact me. I would love to help with logistics. I think this is a great idea!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 12/13/2013 - 02:54

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Lang New York City

Next time contact me. I would love to help with logistics. I think this is a great idea!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 12/22/2013 - 11:00

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Hal Peters New York State

For the uninformed, Martha's Vineyard was once part of New York.

Welcome back MV - even if for a few weeks

Great Job !!!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 01/08/2014 - 22:40

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Maggie Oak Bluffs and New York City

We read about this pop up in a tweet from a NY Times food critic and made a reservation for the next Sunday evening. The place was packed and we sat at the bar next to the famous clam shell fountain and watched the team work. They had two electric ovens stacked on top of each other and and were using 3 hot plates to cook on. And the food was amazing! We had the tasting menu so that we could try everything on the menu and splurged by starting with 6 Katama oysters. Each course was unique and delicious, but especially the bow-hunted MV Venison and the Mermaid Farm feta. By the time desert was being served we made a reservation for the following Sunday and a list of friends we wanted to bring. To all the naysayers...all I can say was it was great to have the island come to me. Because I wish I could by local all the time, but alas I have to work in the off season (In the city) and so glad the Fisher and the Beach Plum Crew have to too. Can't wait til next year...

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