In recent weeks, I have been at a loss for something to read when I find myself eating lunch or dinner alone. This is new to me.
In recent weeks, I have been at a loss for something to read when I find myself eating lunch or dinner alone. This is new to me. Over the years, I’ve become adept at eating with one hand, and holding my phone with the other. The New York Times and Washington Post have been my constant companions. But suddenly, I can’t bear to look at the little screen. The news only gets worse and worse.
The other day, though, a comforting thought occurred to me: “You know how to do this. Just imagine that you’re back on Chappy, living alone in the little red cabin by Cape Pogue Lighthouse.”
In 1971, I spent one of the best autumns of my life in that cabin, an old Coast Guard lifesaving station that Dr. Richard Parmenter and his wife, Bella, had converted into a tiny getaway. As they got older, they rarely ventured out to Cape Pogue from their larger house on Chappy, and Dr. Parmenter generously suggested that it would make a good bunkhouse for me and my best friend, David Tyler.
This was a rash offer. David and I were in our early 20s, with all the maturity that guys in their early 20s normally possess. Somehow, we didn’t burn the place down, even when we loaded too much coal into the potbellied stove on cold November nights.
David was in the Navy, and flew in from Norfolk, Va. on some weekends. He would circle his Cessna over Cape Pogue to let me know he was about to land at Katama Field. He kept a bicycle at the airfield, and had been a varsity athlete when we were in college together, but that didn’t mean he’d be knocking at the cabin door anytime soon. He had to ride to the Chappy Ferry, pedal up the paved road to the North Neck turnoff, navigate about two miles of sandy ruts to reach John Oliver Point, and then row half a mile out to Cape Pogue. Oh, and walk a quarter mile to the cabin. I’d be sitting outside, smoking my pipe as he walked up.
The cabin was delightfully isolated from the world. Fifty years ago, there was no SUV traffic zipping along the beach from the Dike Bridge to Cape Pogue. There were just seagulls, nesting by the thousands.
When Dr. Parmenter first gave me a tour of the cabin, he did a surprising thing: he took a book down from a little shelf and put it on the table.
“You’ll want this when you’re eating alone,” he said.
It was Conan Doyle’s Adventures of Sherlock Holmes. Each story was a 20-minute, lunchtime read.
Pointing up to the rafters, he showed me a thin wire that ran the length of the cabin, and dangled over the table.
“Connect that to the antenna of your radio and you’ll always have company,” he said.
Dr. Parmenter, who was coordinator of research at Cornell University, was a kind man. He could tell that I was a little lost, at 23 years old.
By October, though, I felt like I had found my place on the planet. Each evening, after working as a handyman on Chappy, I would push my rowboat into the water at John Oliver Point and head home to Cape Pogue. If it was already dark, the lighthouse would guide me.
I was Henry David Thoreau at Walden Pond — with a radio.
The old lifesaving station was a simple affair, about 16 feet wide and 30 feet long. There was no electricity and no bathroom. We were on the kerosene plan: kerosene lamps in the main room and a kerosene stove in the tiny kitchen. A hand pump in the kitchen supplied drinking water. If you wanted water for a shower, well, keep pumping. Fill a bucket and take it outside. There was a privy out back, near a pile of coal.
Supper was a simple affair, too: a large can of Dinty Moore beef stew and a cup of instant coffee. Before bed, I enjoyed going out for a long walk over the open moors. There were few trees in those days. The stars, as everyone who lives on the Vineyard knows, were at my fingertips.
I have never known such peace. I desperately wish I could experience even a few moments of that peace right now, in this winter of our discontent. One man’s kindness, and his willingness to share what he possessed to a young man, allowed me to sit with some personal grief and then gather the strength to go on. It was a testament to those good old-fashioned values of kindness, truthfulness and a willingness to share with others.
I left Cape Pogue in late November of that year; I was freezing to death out there, and ready to rejoin the world. And yet I return often, in my mind, when I need some extra comfort to face the present day.
As the year begins, may we all find our way back to that place that lies in our hearts — a quiet spot where we can see the stars and healing can happen.
Tom Harmon is a writer who lives in New Mexico.

Comments
Enchanting and oh, so lovely
Robyn VHEnchanting and oh, so lovely
Enjoyed this read!
Robin AndoverEnjoyed this read!
Extremely interesting story.
rob the roofer new jerseyExtremely interesting story. Thank You !
You successfully transported
Ray C. The MainlandYou successfully transported me there with you (and made me think that, while I’ve plenty of experience with loading wood in a stove, I’ve never loaded and burnt coal :-)
Here’s to our memories of the
George G Saratoga Springs NYHere’s to our memories of the Vineyard & Chappy of ~50 years ago. Cheers!
Enjoy the read, and the best
Judy NH, Oak BluffsEnjoy the read, and the best of life is about to come
What a beautiful story and
Mary Ellen Geary Milton, MAWhat a beautiful story and memory of how simplicity can transform us! I needed this lift this morning and appreciate your inspiration.
Beautiful! October and as
Colantonio Cape PogeBeautiful! October and as deep into November as weather permits is still magic on Pogue.
Please continue sharing your memories in such lovingly crafted images.
A lovely memory of what is
ginny murray Plymouth and ChappyA lovely memory of what is now our family cabin at Cape Pogue, still simple in structure with the outhouse and indoor kitchen sink hand pump in use. Our family is indeed grateful to Dr Parmeter for transferring his piece of Paradise to our family over fifty years ago. We try to maintain his legacy of stewardship and peace with nature.
Dear Ginny,
Tom HarmonDear Ginny,
This is such amazing and wonderful news! My heart goes out to your family with gratitude. I thought that only memories remained out at Cape Pogue. I love the fact that you are still there, enjoying Dr. Parmenter's hidden paradise.
Ginny, thank you for sharing
David A. Tyler TrumansburgGinny, thank you for sharing the "Red Cabin" with Lucia and me and for lunch that summer day a couple of years ago. When Tom is back on Chappy, he should see for himself! David
Tom, my family now owns the
Rick Murray Scituate MATom, my family now owns the house, purchased from Dr. Parmenter very soon after your summer. I used to read that same Sherlock Holmes book, which is still there to this day. Please come visit! [email protected]
Dear Rick,
Tom HarmonDear Rick,
I'm reading your note, and the one from Ginny, and I'm blown away. What a family you are! I'm so glad you've been enjoying Cape Pogue all these years -- and that you've preserved Dr. Parmenter's treasures. Even the Adventures of Sherlock Holmes! I visit Dave and Lucia Tyler now and then, and I'd love to take you up on your offer of a visit one day.
My thanks to all of you for
Tom Harmon New MexicoMy thanks to all of you for these warm comments. I can't believe the Murray family has preserved the outhouse and the hand pump -- and the Sherlock Holmes book! Dr. Parmenter is smiling.
Loved this piece. Brought me
Virginia McCown Farmville, VirginiaLoved this piece. Brought me back to the days 50 years ago when we lived in Katama and there were still only one or two houses on our street and dirt roads were still plentiful.
This was such a lovely read
Rachel Self Cape PogueThis was such a lovely read and brought back so many memories and family stories. Thank you so much for capturing the essence about what living on Cape Pogue is all about. So grateful.
This is a good follow-up on
Larry neustadter margate, N.J.A nice follow-up on the recent essay about wintering on the vineyard.....the need for finding some quiet space to slow things down and listen, see , and observe....As Sherlock Holmes used to say to Watson..."you see...but you do not
observe.." actually a great bunch of stories to be left in the house..
Another great read to add to that cottage would be Henry Beston's "The Outermost House: A year of life on the Great Beach of Cape Cod". Although that house has been reclaimed by the sea in 1978.
Thank you for the terrific essay
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