Chappy Ferry plies its route in Edgartown harbor.
Tim Johnson

The Healing Balm of Chappy Summers

This summer, our extended family will gather on Chappaquiddick for a long-overdue reunion.

This summer, our extended family will gather on Chappaquiddick for a long-overdue reunion. We’re flying in to reconnect with each other, and to introduce my four grandchildren to the island. They’re finally going to see why this tiny spot takes up such a big space in our hearts.

I fell in love with Chappy as a summer kid in the 1950s, when our family would spend July on the island.

I can still hear the thump-thump of the wooden gangplank as our 1949 Ford would back off the Chappy Ferry at our arrival each year. In those days, the little ferry only had a propeller at the stern, so the cars would drive forward to go aboard, and then back off.

“Straight back,” the ferryman would shout. “Straight back, now.” If the tide was low, backing the car up that gangplank was a challenge. My father would gun the engine and ride the clutch, and up we’d go.

We were on Chappy! A mile down the blacktop road was the turnoff to North Neck, and a sandy road into another world. There was no electricity at the two old houses we rented — one for us, and one for the parade of aunts and uncles and cousins and friends who would join us for one-week stays.

“They help us pay the rent,” my mother would explain whenever my brother or sister or I complained about “too much togetherness.” And in fact, our visitors were part of the magic that made Chappy such a different world.

Supper was not a quiet affair. There were often 15 of us at the table. And it didn’t end with, “Now you kids go do your homework.” Sometimes, it didn’t seem to end at all.

It was often a moveable feast, as Hemingway said, beginning at the house with the big front porch for cocktails, migrating to the house with the big dining room for supper, moving into the kitchen to light the kerosene lamps and wash the dishes, and ending up with a nightcap on the porch again, watching the last of the sunset.

The grownups were different at Chappy. And it wasn’t just the alcohol.

On the island, the men had a chance to work through some of the trauma they had just experienced in World War II. This did not involve modern psychology. They worked on it with rusty putty knives, scraping and caulking two old rowboats and a Frostbite sailing dingy that needed to be refurbished each year.

Hanging in the air, with their cigarette smoke, was the unspoken memory of the man who had not come home from the war.

“You kids go catch some scup,” the men would say when the rowboats were ready. Smiling, they watched us row away with our favorite adult, the young widow of the missing man. Her name was Eleanor, and she loved to spend time with us kids. My Mom always invited her to stay for two weeks, instead of one. She said it was because Eleanor was so much fun, but we knew there were other, grownup reasons.

The men didn’t talk much as they worked, but the women sure did. They chatted as they peeled potatoes; they laughed as they took us kids skinny-dipping before breakfast; they sang as they herded us into the kitchen to help wash the supper dishes.

My mother, especially, was transformed by being on Chappy. She had discovered the island during the war. My dad was fighting in the Pacific, and my mom’s sister invited her to come to Chappy with her little boy, my older brother. The island became her safe place in a frightening world.

This, too, was unspoken during our summers in the 1950s, but we could always see a change come over her when the car turned down the sandy road toward Cape Pogue Pond, and peace.

As our family reunion draws near, I realize that I’ve been hoping it will carry my grandchildren “straight back,” as the ferryman said, to the Chappy I loved as a boy. But no: We’re going to drive off the ferry straight ahead this time, into a changed world. My grandchildren are going off on their own adventure, to discover their own Chappy.

I just hope it includes scup for breakfast, and skinny-dipping.

Tom Harmon is a writer who lives in New Mexico.

Comments

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 06/03/2022 - 07:51

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Karen Self Osler Cape Pogue

Thank you, Tom, for your wonderfully nostalgic piece. It brought me right back to my family's summers in the 50's just across Cape Pogue Pond from you. Those were our seemingly endless Chappy summers. Now they go by way too quickly.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 06/03/2022 - 10:25

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Karen Liffmann Providence

Captivating.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 06/03/2022 - 15:05

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Jack Chappy

We give the thanks every year that on top of all news and changes to the Vineyard year after year ….as we drive off the Chappy ferry for any kind of extended stay — we all reverently say “Let the healing begin!”. Heartening to feel that is still true today as it has always been….thank you!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 06/03/2022 - 18:41

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Charles West Chester Pennsylvania

Wonderful reflections of a magical place. Thank you for sharing your memories, Mr. Harmon! I hope your grandchildren find Chappaquiddick as special as you have.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 06/04/2022 - 10:45

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Win Self Cape Pogue

Thank you for expressing your lovely Chappy childhood memories with such eloquence, Tom! Enjoy your family reunion!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 06/04/2022 - 19:05

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Jamie Brookline

This is so magical. Thank you! We are excited for our kids to make some new Chappy memories with their cousins!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 06/05/2022 - 19:22

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John Robertson Placitas, New Mexico

The world beyond the ditchbank. Thanks, Tom. And have a wonderful time.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 06/06/2022 - 06:32

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Emily Cummings Sierra Leone

I could smell the salt air mixed with the diesel of the ferry as I read this, and felt some small healing in my heart just with that.Dinners that never end, card games and sandy roads, transformed adults. Thank you.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 06/06/2022 - 10:44

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Cindy Packard Annandale

I share many of those memories. My father bought our house in 1953 for $8,500. We furnished it from the Chappy dump and fire sale auctions across from Morning Glory. Chsppy is deeply loved by our families.
However, the madness of the main island has spilled over onto Chappy: The greedy man who trespassed on the Stephens land to chop down 80 trees to improve his view, the speeders, the parking nightmare at the point, the constant sound of land being cleared and mega-mansions being built... The Chappy we knew, as recently as the Nineties is gone. As someone said. "Everybody loves Chappy. They are loving it to death."

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 06/09/2022 - 15:17

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Anna Harmon-Keeney Albuquerque, New Mexico

Dad, What a beautiful story! Thank you for your reflection and for sharing. I am so looking forward to the reunion and to connect with this place that means so much to you and our family. Love you

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