On the second day, the Gay Head Light was a morning beacon.
Luke Frazier

Walking Around the Island

I walked the perimeter of Martha’s Vineyard last October over four consecutive days. I walked six to seven hours a day, covering 12 to 15 miles at a stretch.

I walked the perimeter of Martha’s Vineyard last October over four consecutive days. I walked six to seven hours a day, covering 12 to 15 miles at a stretch. The second day coincided with my 60th birthday.

There were both physical and emotional challenges along the way. My family has a long history on the Island, and the walk brought up memories. Step by step, some stretches more contemplative than others, the past walked into the present.

Day one, Oct. 4: Lake Tashmoo to Menemsha. Rainy, rocky and slippery. My Uber driver offered words of encouragement when she dropped me off in the pouring rain at the end of Chappaquonsett Road.

I found surer footing in spongy clumps of seaweed. I saw dozens of washed-ashore lobster traps and colorful rope. For a time I counted birds: cormorants, terns, gulls, a few crows and one egret.

Rock, sand, seaweed; a shoreline mantra.
Luke Frazier
Rock, sand, seaweed; a shoreline mantra.
Luke Frazier

I started thinking about where I was. On a gorgeous coast of a beautiful Island, alone and walking. A speck on the planet.

When I arrived in Menemsha a woman was on the beach with her dog. I told her I had just walked for more than seven hours. “Oh, don’t you love being on the beach on rainy gray days?” she said. I laughed and thought of the rocks, driving rain, my sore muscles and feet.

Day two: Menemsha to Stonewall Beach. I woke up so stiff I couldn’t stretch my arms past my knees. Happy 60th birthday!

There were fewer stretches of rocks, until near the end approaching Squibnocket. I settled into a nice rhythm. I took in magnificent boulders, studied visual patterns, smiled at the intermittent sunshine, and sang as I walked.

The Gay Head Light become my morning beacon, and I read the tide chart correctly to get around the point without swimming. At one point I stopped and bandaged a problem toenail and blister.

I thought about my siblings. I’m the youngest of nine kids. My family history includes a sister’s suicide, another’s accidental death, multiple mental illnesses and substance abuse. I recalled my brother tossing a suitcase off the ferry into the harbor while manically rambling. I thought about my sister in a tiny Circuit avenue apartment, holed up and paranoid.

Walking created space for reflection on the whole kaleidoscope, my own substance abuse and sadness included. I got sober 16 years ago. I don’t think I would have done the walk if I hadn’t.

At the end of the day, I sat in the parking lot of Stonewall Beach. I couldn’t reach Uber, so I walked to the road and stuck out my thumb. Eventually a woman named Paulette stopped and gave me a ride. We laughed and enjoyed each other’s company for the length of the ride. She reminded me of my mother. After time spent thinking about my family, here was a spirit like my mom’s to take me safely back to my temporary nest.

Day three: Chilmark to Katama. A long march across the southern shore. Nothing but sand in front of me and the Atlantic to my right for 14-plus miles. I reached the cut between Chilmark Pond and the Atlantic. It looked like a mile across, but probably was about 15 yards.

I paused briefly then wrapped my phone in a plastic bag and decided to start wading. If it got to my chest, I would turn around.

View across a vast salt marsh.
Luke Frazier
View across a vast salt marsh.
Luke Frazier

The current was stronger than it looked. Halfway across, the water rose just above my waist. Three-quarters of the way across, I slipped. I instinctively threw my left leg forward and didn’t go under. I was wet to the chest but scrambled to land.

Safely on the sand, I started laughing and yelling.

I grew tired as I covered the remaining miles to Katama. Finally, I arrived at the parking lot off Atlantic Drive. I returned to my place, ready to collapse.

Day four: Katama to Oak Bluffs.

The morning broke bright and clear. I felt like a tiny speck in the universe, but connected to all of it.

As I headed toward Wasque Point, my family history once again dominated my heart and mind. I listened to a recording of interviews I did with three of my siblings about their lives.

They expressed a mix of emotions as I asked them about growing up. My family was included in a National Institute of Mental Health study investigating familial clustering of serious mental illnesses.

Eventually a shift occurred. The emotions dissipated, no doubt a combination of exhaustion and hours of mindful walking. Somehow the past became less urgent. I didn’t need to question it.

The day felt triumphant. I reached the Dike Bridge, turned down the Chappaquiddick Road and took the ferry to Edgartown. I walked along State Beach to Oak Bluffs.

It had been four days of rock, sand, sky, water, and self. Today I had a more peaceful view of the past. How did I get there? I walked.

Luke Frazier lives in Cleveland, Ohio.

Comments

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 03/04/2022 - 11:27

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Felicity Turner Long Island, NY

You go brother! What an amazing journey you captured with your unbelievably eloquent piece. So proud of you.
Love ya lots and lots

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 03/04/2022 - 16:23

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B.J. Frazier Savannah, GA

As usual, Luke captured the essence of our family, the island and our spirit once again. Next time take me along bro!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 03/05/2022 - 08:14

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Chris Strathman Naples, FL

What a wonderful record of your walk around the coast of Martha’s Vineyard! So much to find in your observations and thoughts on life, and so much to see.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 03/05/2022 - 10:25

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Robin Muskal NJ

Wonderful writing. So completely accessible and honest. Pics are a beautiful addition.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 03/05/2022 - 14:58

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Janet Cooper Tucson,az

As A long time friend of one of the Frazier siblings I appreciate the raw honesty about the family. I remember the generosity, nonjudgmental tolerance the family shared with one another and friends.
Jgcooper

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 03/05/2022 - 22:17

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Elliott Schaffer Powell, OH

Eloquently stated as usual. Profound, sad & uplifting all in one piece.
Thank you for putting pen to paper so beautifully.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 03/08/2022 - 20:53

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Erik Cetrulo Darien, CT

Thank you for sharing your journey. This article made me smile. It captured three of the things I love most about the island - its awe-inducing natural beauty, a seemingly limitless capacity for adventure exploring and appreciating that beauty, and last, most importantly, its capacity to heal.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 03/09/2022 - 15:33

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trip barnes vh

You did something I have always wanted to do.Thanks for a good read..

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