With the Covid-19 pandemic raging, the normally quiet down-Island Main streets have turned ghostly, as the off-season tests the Vineyard winter economy and social fabric.
There isn’t normally much going on in Oak Bluffs on a January night.
But there normally is something going on.
At the Ritz — a mainstay, year-round dive bar on Circuit avenue — Johnny Hoy and his harmonica blues will take the stage twice a week, Johnny Showtime and his trivia nights sandwiched in between. The Cardboard Box is like an off-season club. And even though almost all the other seasonal bars are closed, a few smokers always linger outside, parking spaces can still be tough to find on the lower avenue, and the karaoke machine carries Islanders through the deepest, darkest moments of the winter.
But this year, with the Covid-19 pandemic raging, the normally quiet down-Island Main streets have turned ghostly, as the off-season tests the Vineyard winter economy and social fabric and in a way it has never been tested before.
And it’s not yet February.
“We’re going to be eating beans and rice for a year, but we’ll be fine,” said The Ritz owner Larkin Stallings, who made the decision to close the bar and restaurant on New Years’ Day.
Along with The Ritz, anchor, year-round restaurants and bars in all three down-Island commercial hubs have shuttered early, hibernating in an attempt to outlast the frigid economic climate. The Black Dog Tavern in Vineyard Haven — long a classic, cozy off-season spot on the waterfront — closed early and plans to open late. The Newes From America pub in Edgartown did the same, the raging fire and timber tables locked up until the April thaw.
In a letter to Edgartown selectmen requesting the closure, Kelley House general manager Evan Bailey was clear about the reason.
“The decision is in response to the impact the global pandemic has taken on our industry,” Mr. Bailey wrote.
In interviews with more than a dozen normally year-round Main street Island businesses, owners and managers said that the summer of survival transitioned right into the winter of simply surviving, with businesses hoping to outlast a pandemic that has seemingly caught up to everyone. The businesses that have survived, in some cases, said they have done well, reporting better winters than past years. But the impacts — and pressures — of the pandemic remain severe for all.
Restaurants and some retailers, particularly hard hit, have been faced with early closures, reduced hours or structural changes. For Islanders, that has meant “for rent” or “takeout” signs in windows where jewelry and menus used to hang, fewer options on Main streets, and a bleak reminder of Island winters long thought to be figments of the past, when the post office and grocery store were the only year-round establishments.
Christine Flynn, the economic development planner at the Martha’s Vineyard Commission, put it succinctly.
“It can be devastating to a downtown when doors are closed,” Ms. Flynn said.
In Oak Bluffs and Edgartown, the closures extend beyond The Ritz and The Newes. Rosewater Market, which recently reopened, had been closed for more than nine months, while the Harbor View Hotel shortened its hours and Isola shut down earlier in the year. The Oak Bluffs Mocha Mott’s location has been closed since the winter settled in; ditto for The Loft and MV Chowder Co. Other year-round restaurants, like Offshore Ale and the Cardboard Box, are only open for takeout or outdoor dining. In Vineyard Haven, EduComp and Mosher Photo, two historic Main street businesses, closed permanently.
Mr. Stallings normally closes The Ritz for a few weeks in February, and reopens in early March. This year, he closed on New Year’s Day.
“The fall and late winter were pretty rough. Our staff was basically able to find better employment in Florida so they’ve gone to Florida for the winter,” he said. “The money in what we do, really kind of dried up.”
Other restaurants cited difficulties in finding staff, especially as the summer and fall ended and seasonal work forces left the Island. Many said statewide limitations on indoor dining during the winter months were particularly restrictive, leaving little room for already thin offseason profit margins.
“In addition to the pandemic and reductions in business levels, the recent mandate by Gov. Charlie Baker reducing in-dining occupancy to 25 per cent makes it impossible to cover our operating costs,” Mr. Bailey wrote in his letter to the Edgartown selectmen.
While outdoor dining and creative streetscape changes in all down-Island towns gave restaurants and retailers more options during the summer, less could be done to help the businesses as temperatures dropped.
Those restaurants that have survived — or even thrived — are the ones that have been able to successfully transition themselves to takeout and grab-and-go formats, like the Copper Wok in Vineyard Haven and Vineyard Caribbean Cuisine in Oak Bluffs.
“If you’re a heavily takeout business, you’re having a great year. If you’re a bar or a sit-down restaurant, you’re struggling, but you’re adapting,” said J.B. Blau, the Island restaurauter who owns Copper Wok, Sharky’s Cantina and MV Chowder Company.
At Copper Wok, Mr. Blau said he has stayed afloat despite significant revenue deficits, largely thanks to his takeout business and a small dining area running at 25 per cent of usual capacity. He said his more upscale restaurants, like the Chowder Company in Oak Bluffs, have been dark since early in the pandemic. Sea Smoke barbecue closed in December.
Newton Waite, who owns Vineyard Caribbean Cuisine in Oak Bluffs, counted his blessings.
“We would say for winter, we’re not doing too bad,” said Mr. Waite. “It’s a different winter.”
Richard Leonard, Cape Cod Five bank’s regional president for Martha’s Vineyard, said that the already tough summer made for an even tougher off-season. “The impact has been especially hard on the hospitality businesses and their employees,” Mr. Leonard said. “We’re in the off-season, and a lot of these smaller businesses have slower cash flow. The difference this year is that they are entering the off-season from such a tough place.”
Ms. Flynn at the MVC added that the challenges from Covid-19 would likely reverberate for a long time.
“Many businesses may not survive,” she said.
But not all is dark and dreary. In Vineyard Haven, the Island’s most traditional year-round town, Main street retailers and restaurants that are still open said they are operating through a quiet, but stable winter.
“I think people really forget how year-round Vineyard Haven really is,” said Sara York, manager at C.B. Stark Jewelers and head of the Vineyard Haven business association. “Not much changed.” Ms. York said traffic at the jewelry shop this January has actually surpassed that of last year.
Elaine Barse, owner of the Green Room, a clothing and outdoor goods store, said her retail season has been very similar to that of previous years, if not slightly better. New businesses, like a sporting goods store called Sideline, have opened on Main street, and year-round spots like Waterside Market and Mikado have settled in to takeout.
Island bankers also noted that a second round of Payroll Protection Program loans has just begun, focused more heavily on the restaurant and hospitality industry. The loans will cover three months of payroll, rather than the two months covered last cycle, and require businesses to show a 25 per cent decline in revenues, gearing them toward the Island’s hardest hit industries. Three hundred businesses have already applied through MV Bank, president James Anthony said.
Mr. Anthony also said that robust testing programs in Island schools, funded by MV Youth and other charitable grants, have allowed parents to return to work, thereby helping to buoy the economy — and allowing eateries like Rosewater to reopen.
But unemployment numbers in Dukes County remain bleak this winter. In November the Island had the second-highest unemployment rate in the state, at 7.2 per cent, according to a recent housing needs assessment done by the Martha’s Vineyard Commission.
The impact extends beyond the economy. After a magical blanket of snow fell in Edgartown Tuesday evening, the town appeared frozen in time — a winter wonderland devoid of footprints, snowmen or hot cocoa. The only signs of life were a few bearded faces huddled at the Wharf’s bar, the lone interruptions to an otherwise eerie — and omnipresent — nighttime quiet.
But at least there was parking.

Comments
This is such a shame. "We
Jim EdgartownThis is such a shame. "We need to open up soon or there will be nothing to open up..". Mario Cuomo
Well its to late...because 1
Gary NYWell its to late...because 1/2 of the restaurants and hotels have closed.
This has been nothing but a political football for some Governor’s and Mayors...
I find it strange, when u can go into a supermarket Or big box store but you can’t sit down for a dinner?
The duration and environment
John E. Brookline, Mass.The duration and environment matter. It's harder to contract Covid during a 30-minute shopping trip in a large store in near-constant motion than during a 90-minute stationary dinner in a much-smaller restaurant.
Well, that is like comparing
Jamie West TisburyWell, that is like comparing apples to oranges. First off you are running into the grocery store to grab milk and eggs and probably gone in under thirty minutes, of which you are masked up the entire time. Going into a restaurant, ordering a drink and a meal is probably an hour or maybe longer, and not to mention you and every other customer in there are not wearing masks. Seems like common sense to me. I am a year round islander and miss our restaurants dearly, and try and support as many that are offering take-out as possible. We hope that with people doing what is needed to get us out of this damn mess that we are in, that maybe this spring we can all be carefully returning to some normal social activities.
I agree, I go into the big
Larry Edgartown-NYI agree, I go into the big box stores grocery stores etc... people are bumping into each other touching produce etc... but that’s ok?? And sitting down in a restaurant the risk is higher??
Can't open up. People are
West Hall West TisburyCan't open up. People are dying with this Covid.
If you are a public employee
Bob EdgartownIf you are a public employee you have not suffered and even got your raises this year. If you work in the trades industry you had a rocky start but finish strong with plenty of work ahead. Some in the real estate community have done exceedingly well to the point of obscene. That seems to be focused on a few with the average agent still doing about the same as always. But anyone else on the island it is not fun times.
A good article slightly
Tot EdgartownA good article slightly marred by strange editing. Your third paragraph says "Johnny Hoy and his harmonica blues will take the stage..." but your sixth paragraph says the bar closed down on New Year's Day. That's just confusing. Later in the article, you refer to The Newes From America's "raging fire and timber tables locked up until the April thaw." Given that the establishment has nearly burned down several times in the past few years, the phrase was more suggestive of an inferno than a lockdown. Kill your darlings!
Nicely done! Good article,
Mathew Tombers EdgartownNicely done! Good article, nice writing.
Meanwhile our government
Mark EdgartownMeanwhile our government bureaucrats can work from home and maintain a steady paycheck. If they needed to be in the office to be paid, I guarantee you the economy would be open.
Dear Jim: Mario Cuomo’s been
Richard Barbieri OBDear Jim: Mario Cuomo’s been dead for six years. Are you hearing him requesting to be dug up?
Oops I meant Andrew ...
Jim EdgartownOops I meant Andrew ...
Keep in mind we are all in this together
The only place making a
Charlie Callahan So Boston/EdgartownThe only place making a bundle are the liquor stores, who from the beginning have had no restrictions since the start of this plague and have made a fortune. Pretty disgusting when hardworking people are put out of business and yet whoever is pulling the strings to keep the booze flowing is raking it in. Look around at the millions of nip bottles on the streets and you can see there is a serious problem here. Casual drinkers don't buy nips, drunks buy nips
Lets not forget that all the
gina Menemsha/NYCLets not forget that all the states considered selling Lotto tickets an essential biz also.. God forbid the states lose that cash cow.. In MASS they sell Lotto tickets in liquor store. In NY they don't. but. both liquor & Lotto generate lots of State revenue..
Well said Charlie! This will
Jim EdgartownWell said Charlie! This will go down in History as one of the biggest mistakes in our lifetime “shutdowns” we will be paying the price for years to come.
Always keep in mind and listen to the people that are telling you to stay home... Most if not all are Goverment employees who haven’t missed a paycheck or know what it’s like to miss a paycheck...
We are not all in this together ...
I think we could all use a
Laurie welch Oak BluffsI think we could all use a little positivity. How about a story featuring those of us who are still open 6 days/wk and employing people. Phillips, Reliable & Basics are 3 that come to mind. It’s terrible that many of our businesses close in the winter by *choice or circumstance. It decimates our little town. I am thankful for all the local support we receive and for the team that is committed to being there.
Laurie Welch
Basics
I appreciate the VG’s take
Islander Martha’s VineyardI appreciate the VG’s take here. They are leveling with us and tell a story of how it really is, at the same time they do discuss businesses that are open and closed. Painting a rosy picture at this time when so many are hurting isn’t accurate and a good newspaper must report on the news as it is, not how we want it to be. That said, I’m glad to hear Basics is doing ok/well. I’m hoping the same for DaRosa’s and other staple OB businesses.
You guys rock. Also Da Rosa's
Frank Brunelle Vineyard HavenYou guys rock. Also Da Rosa's, Black Dog just recently closed, but yeah, really important to keep things positive and we are all very grateful.
Hey, don’t forget Offshore
Sam SalemHey, don’t forget Offshore Ale! My favorite place on the island!
Big love to all on MV! This
AnonymousBig love to all on MV! This too shall pass.
I feel bad for all those who
John W TisburyI feel bad for all those who have been adversely affected by this "pandemic" and the restrictions put in place because of it. That said, compared to a normal winter even a couple of decades ago, this place is far from dead. I'm probably not alone in remembering the sometimes desolate quietude of past winters fondly.
John, yes, quiet it is not,
Lorraine EdgartownJohn, yes, quiet it is not, compared to decades ago. I miss that and it is becoming impossible to find around the country. I am fortunate that I have been able to be in parts of the world where there is no mobile, not television, no traffic, and it is good for the soul. I can remember sitting with a good book in my house in the evenings and not one vehicle could be heard. Ah, the good old days. I realize they do not suit everyone. Who was it who said: Most of man's troubles arise from the fact that he cannot sit, alone, in a room for fifteen minutes? Ah, yes, Pascal. Forgive me, I paraphrase.
How quickly we all forget the
Michael OB and Boca RatonHow quickly we all forget the traffic jams of August.
Geesh.
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