Ivy Ashe

One More for the Road Before I Go

Beach Road is the only place on the Island where both the sky and the road open wide, where you can see the world unfold in front of you for miles as you drive.

When I was a senior in high school I took a class in nonfiction writing. I had never studied nonfiction before. We read Wolfe and Dillard and Lamott and Junger; our assignments ranged from interviews to movie reviews. One week the assignment was travel writing.

I wrote about Beach Road, the ribbon of road that runs along a barrier beach between Edgartown and Oak Bluffs, with Sengekontacket Pond on one side and Nantucket Sound on the other.

This was before it became my commute for the first time, when I was in college and biking up and down the sandy bike path every day on my way to a summer job at Morning Glory Farm. It was before it became my commute the second time, when I freelanced for the Gazette, and before the third and final time, when I became a staff reporter and photographer.

I wrote about the Beach Road that I knew only from summer visits to the Vineyard, the road where teenagers did backflips off the wobbly railing of the Big Bridge into the fast-moving tide below, where hundreds of cars belonging to beachgoers were parked alongside sandy dunes flecked with rosa rugosa, the road so iconic that it appears in the movie Jaws.

Then on a dreary day in March 2011, I moved to the Island to live year round, commuting from an apartment in Oak Bluffs to Edgartown for my work at the Gazette. At the time, the Big Bridge was under construction and there was a set of traffic lights at the head of the road. It was a good sign for the day if I managed to get through when both were green. I drove to work beneath thickly clouded morning skies that eventually gave way to clear blue as the day went on — before they changed color again.

One April day after I left work, a blazing orange late-spring sunset silhouetted bare-branched trees at the far side of Sengekontacket and lit up the pools of water in the marsh. I pulled over at Bend in the Road Beach and bolted from the car with my camera, running back to the Cow Bay culvert to try to capture the color.

Time passed. In October one night when the moon was full, I stopped at the seawall on my way home and sat on the wall to look at the moonbeam and listen to the water lapping against the rocks. In late fall when I stepped out of the office into a blue-black night, I started my ritual of putting Jackson Browne’s Running on Empty in my CD player and switching to the ninth track as I started around Bend in the Road (there are no better night driving songs than the one-two punch of The Load-Out/Stay.) Once I turned my headlights off and drove in the blackness for a few yards, just to see what that was like.

In winter one time I stopped at the bridge and leapt through snow drifts like a kindergartner to get to the jetty, which was almost submerged because the tide was so high and the current so strong. The wind chill was below zero and my hands — without gloves because I was taking photos — went numb. My car was the only one parked along the road.

In February, when the pond froze and looked like an Arctic vista with radiant sunlight bouncing off the ice, I pulled over to try to get that sunset, and then turned around to look at the ocean side. The sky was a rosy lavender color, and the ocean so still that it reflected the sky as well as any mirror. There was barely a horizon line.

Beach Road is the only place on the Island where both the sky and the road open wide, where you can see the world unfold in front of you for miles as you drive.

Last weekend I drove from Edgartown to Oak Bluffs and pulled over when I was halfway home. It wasn’t the sky this time; it was the ocean, which was a rich jade green I had never seen before. It looked tropical.

I’m moving to another Island next week to take a job at another newspaper on the Big Island in Hawaii. There are no seasons there, not like here anyway, and the island is more than 40 times the size of the Vineyard. There are roads that are breathtaking, or so my Lonely Planet book tells me.

Still, if there is one thing I will take away from being here, it’s that you don’t find magic in the obvious moments.

Beach Road in summer demands attention, and it’s what got my attention all those years ago. But the most wonderful thing about that road, the best commute I’ll ever have, is how well it wears each of the four seasons. That’s not something you can learn in a summer.

Comments

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 04/09/2015 - 21:13

Permalink

Kate Feiffer

Ivy, you will be missed here. Best of luck with your new adventure. Hawaii is lucky to be getting such a talented and warm woman.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 04/09/2015 - 23:33

Permalink

Joel Kadis Newton, MA and Katama

We'll miss you Ivy. Hope Hawaii is fun ! Hugs from Riley, Joel, Maurya and Colin.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/10/2015 - 05:29

Permalink

thomas dresser oak bluffs

Sweet piece, Ivy.
We'll miss your heartfelt comments, your skillful reporting, your defining photos, your desires and dreams which have blossomed over your years at the Gazette. You'll miss your alpaca friends, I'm sure, as well.
It's been a great run, and we wish you all the best with another newspaper at the very furthest end of the country.
Our thoughts travel with you, just as you traveled along Beach Road, savoring the sights along the way.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/10/2015 - 07:38

Permalink

Carla Gouraige Summit NJ

I so enjoyed you articles and this one really hit home. Driving along Beach Road is one of my favorite things too. Your readers will miss you and so will Beach Road.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/10/2015 - 08:34

Permalink

Patricia SMith Milford Ct

Best of luck Ivy. For years I have enjoyed your articles and photos. Best of the on the " big island ". I hope you enjoy it. Come back sometime to drive Beach Road again you will be missed.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/10/2015 - 09:05

Permalink

Cynthia Bloomquist West Tisbury

"You don't find magic in the obvious moments..." -- as you have so beautifully noted, you find magic when you are looking, open to it. Stay open to the magic. Beach Road and this island will be here for your return.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/10/2015 - 10:11

Permalink

Betty Burton Vineyard Haven

Ivy, enjoy your new island. We will miss you on this one. I still remember our first interview and the one about Mariana Chilton and her work with the Witnesses to Hunger. Best of luck.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/10/2015 - 10:21

Permalink

AT Phillips VT

Good luck to you! What a beautifully written piece about one of my favorite island touchstones. My heart swells with my memories of so many magical (and often not obvious) moments there. Thank you.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/10/2015 - 10:49

Permalink

Dean Rosenthal Vineyard Haven

Thank you for the warm, heartfelt tribute to Beach Road, a singularly beautiful passage from one Vineyard town to another, stocked with memories of all seasons. Good luck to you in your new adventure!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/10/2015 - 11:44

Permalink

Douglas Korves Always on-island in my soul

I always take Atlantic Drive and Beach Road to Edgartown to and from VH and especially when coming on-island. Beach Road gives my breath back and fills my lungs.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/10/2015 - 18:45

Permalink

Jenifer Parkinson on the Oak Bluffs side of the Lagoon

You are a good writer. A very, very good writer. This is a wonderful piece and I will look forward to reading more of your prose. Come back to us again one day. Travelling mercies.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/10/2015 - 19:35

Permalink

PK Anderson The Vineyard

To bad the "NO DOGS" on the beach signs were cropped out of the picture. I suppose it would have taken away from the romantic nature of the story.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/10/2015 - 21:05

Permalink

Meredith Goldthwait Oak Bluffs

Ivy, I will miss reading your articles. You have always done an amazing job writing whether it was sports, current events or commentary. Thank you for once again reminding me of how special my hometown is. Best wishes to you on your move and your new adventures in the 50th state.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/10/2015 - 22:03

Permalink

obporch ob

True - the vision makes you feel like you are part of the sky - not driving on earth!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/10/2015 - 22:59

Permalink

Catherine Manchester, CT

I will never forget my drives and bike rides along Beach Road. Perhaps the most beautiful road in the World.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 04/11/2015 - 01:47

Permalink

Gail A. Francis Seabeck,WA and Edgartown

Wonderful article-Bend in the Road is my favorite place--too many years to count!
Enjoy Hawaii and best of luck to you in your new venture--

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 04/11/2015 - 11:39

Permalink

Rose Walsh Edgartown

Best of luck Ivy, you will be missed. Thank you for the beautifully written articles.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 04/11/2015 - 15:02

Permalink

Gee Gee Barden Porter Ranch, CA

Ivy, thank you for a very beautiful farewell piece for your readers to treasure as we face the loss of your voice and presence. I trust that your Hawaii experience will be all that you hope for and more. If in the years ahead time and circumstance should bring you back, know that Beach Road, the entire Island, and your many admirers will all be waiting to enfold you in our welcoming arms.

Add new comment

Plain text

  • No HTML tags allowed.
  • Lines and paragraphs break automatically.
  • Web page addresses and email addresses turn into links automatically.