Following a huge welcome home early this month, the Charles W. Morgan is now back in her berth at Chubb’s Wharf at Mystic Seaport. There are no barrels of whale oil to unload this time, but instead a wealth of new information to digest.
It was a scene straight out of the 19th century: a whaling ship sailing into Buzzards Bay, bound for New Bedford.
But this was late June 2014. On a hazy day, the Charles W. Morgan, the last remaining wooden whaling ship, returned to her former home port, the place where she was built in 1841.
“She literally came out of the mist at Quick’s Hole,” the ship’s historian, Matthew Stackpole, said this week. “If you think of an image of a ship coming from the past to present, it was that kind of entry. It was just spine-tingling. Here she comes with the same keel that was laid in January 1841 . . . behind her was a ghost fleet of 2,700 ships. The mist that day was the perfect environment to imagine that.”
The New Bedford homecoming was one stop of many on the Charles W. Morgan’s historic 38th voyage. Over 82 days this summer, the wooden whaling ship was back to life, sailing familiar waters and symbolizing the country’s maritime history for thousands of visitors.
For a week in June, the Charles W. Morgan was anchored in Vineyard Haven harbor — a nod to the Vineyard’s own whaling history, which includes several ties to the Morgan.
The 38th voyage was made possible by an extensive, multi-million dollar restoration at Mystic Seaport, where she has now returned after her historic trip.
“It was such an amazing summer and so many remarkable things happened on the voyage,” Mr. Stackpole said. “We had really high goals and expectations for the whole thing and I can say that in every case and everywhere what happened exceeded our expectations.”
The voyage began in the spring when the Charles W. Morgan sailed for the first time in nearly a century. The ship was first launched in July 1841, and sailed on 37 whaling voyages over 80 years. She last sailed on a whaling trip in 1921.
After her restoration, Mystic Seaport took the bold step of having the ship sail again. While once the ship sailed on multi-year voyages around the world in search of whales and valuable whale oil, the mission this time was to raise awareness about maritime history and ocean conservation.
In May, the ship departed from Mystic with Capt. Richard (Kip) Files of Maine at the helm. The Morgan stopped at seven ports of call, including New London, Conn., and Newport, R.I.
On June 18, the Charles W. Morgan sailed for the first time into Vineyard Sound. While many of her captains and members of her crew were from the Island, the ship had never visited the Vineyard. Her arrival was heralded by crowds gathered along the north shore and Vineyard Haven harbor to get a glimpse or a photograph of a whaling ship under sail.
When the ship passed Cuttyhunk, she sailed right by the spot where the second to last whaling ship, the Wanderer, wrecked in 1924. “Who could have imagined in August 1924 that the Morgan could still be in existence, be sailing, be sailing by the spot where the Wanderer wrecked,” Mr. Stackpole said.
“This was a restoration,” he said. “But we didn’t know it til we experienced it, but it was a resurrection, too, because the ship had life again and was sailing for the first time down Vineyard Sound.”
The Morgan docked at Tisbury Wharf to a chorus of cheers, boat horns and cannon fire.
On the Vineyard, as in other places, “it was very emotional, almost visceral,” Mr. Stackpole said.
“We couldn’t have done this voyage without Ralph Packer,” Mr. Stackpole added. The owner of Tisbury Wharf donated a tug boat and a crew for the entire trip.
During the four days she was open to visitors on the Island, 7,822 people visited the ship and a dockside exhibit.
The Charles W. Morgan was known as a lucky ship; she was profitable and avoided the ill fortune of other whaling ships, including shipwrecks and Confederate raiders. It seems the Morgan magic was there for the 38th voyage as well.
At Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary off Cape Cod, the old whaling ship sailed peacefully alongside whales. In a symbolic gesture, a whaling boat was lowered, and whales swam directly below the smaller boat. Jean-Michel Cousteau, the son of legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau, was aboard the ship, Mr. Stackpole said, and said it was two of the greatest days of his life.
There was the emotional return to New Bedford, where the Morgan sailed in at seven knots and then tied up near where she used to return from whaling voyages.
In New Bedford, the Morgan also braved an early season storm, as Hurricane Arthur came up the eastern seaboard. Mystic Seaport had a contingency plan in case of a hurricane, Mr. Stackpole said, and that plan was to go to New Bedford, which has a hurricane barrier. Despite eight inches of rain, the Morgan was perfectly safe, Mr. Stackpole said. And 600 people came to see the ship between 9 a.m. and noon on July 4, despite the hurricane.
In Boston, the Morgan docked next to the USS Constitution at the Charlestown Navy Yard. The two oldest American ships were side by side for the first time.
The USS Constitution Museum honored Mystic with the Turner Award, which recognizes major restoration efforts of national impact, Mr. Stackpole said. Coincidentally, the award was given on July 21, the date the Morgan first sailed back in 1841. “The ship is magic,” he said. “And she was again.”
The Red Sox honored the Morgan at Fenway Park. Captain Files threw out the first pitch.
When the Morgan first sailed, it was the first time anybody alive had sailed on a whaling ship. It was also the first time color photographs were taken of a whaling ship under sail.
Voyagers joined the crew on different legs of the trip, including scientists, poets, teachers, Melville scholars, artists and oceanographers. Mystic is beginning to harvest everything gained from the voyagers, Mr. Stackpole said.
The great-grandson of Herman Melville was aboard as was the great-great-grandson of Charles W. Morgan, the ship’s original owner and namesake.
The Charles W. Morgan returned to Mystic on August 6. Coming up Mystic River, crowds yelled welcome home and sang God Bless America, Mr. Stackpole said. The ship is now back in her berth at Chubb’s Wharf at Mystic Seaport, where more than 21 million people have visited her over the years.
There are no barrels of whale oil to unload this time, but instead a wealth of new information to digest.
“Now we have a whole new body of knowledge about her,” he said. “We know how she sails . . . not only did she sail, but she sailed well and easily.”
The crew returned with “new vigor and new insights and experienced things to share,” he added.
“It was great for all of us and I think it was great for her,” Mr. Stackpole said. “I think the ship was happy.”
And one key member of the Morgan crew is taking a permanent shore leave. Mr. Stackpole, a Vineyard resident, is leaving Mystic and coming home to the Island full time. “This has been a remarkable voyage for me,” Mr. Stackpole said. “It’s really poignant.”
His last official day at Mystic will be Friday, August 29.
Mr. Stackpole’s own history has been intertwined with whaling and Mystic Seaport. His ancestors were whalers, and his father, Edouard Stackpole, was curator at Mystic Seaport and wrote a book about the Morgan.
Mr. Stackpole said he has approached his time at Mystic as a whaling voyage. Now, he said, it is time to come home.
“I’ll always be here. My relationship with the museum is ongoing,” he said. “It’s just that I want to come home, I want to come back to my community.
“The real hero of the story is my wife Martha, who was relentlessly supportive of what I was doing, which made it possible,” he said.
Before the 38th voyage, all agreed this would be the only time the restored ship would sail.
“I think what we’re saying now is that’s still our basic thinking,” Mr. Stackpole said. “But never say never, because we got so much out of it that we didn’t know we were going to get out of it.
“Never say never. For the right reasons and the right moment.”

Comments
I was floored when I asked
Dee Ouchman Isles of LangerhansI was floored when I asked about future voyages and was told there were no plans to ever sail her again. What a colossal waste. I hope the trustees re-consider their plan before she rots away in Mystic.
As Mr. Stagpole said "never
Carol Rumrill Charlestown, RIAs Mr. Stagpole said "never say never". I doubt they have ruled it out totally.
As much as I can understand
C. J. Baptista ConnecticutAs much as I can understand others' desires for another Voyage (who wouldn't want to sail on the only existing whaleship in the world?!), I also understand the desire NOT to have a 39th Voyage (at least, not anytime soon). Let me be selfish for a moment: I am one of the 38th Voyagers and, to be honest, there would be a lack of appeal to that title if, suddenly, "anyone" could be a Voyager, after waiting for some time and opportunity to come along. This experience was meant to be a special experiment, a trial if you will. The Seaport President Steve White seems to have pushed for this project with so much passion because part of him simply wanted to see if it could be done: could this 1841 ship actually sail again, despite the naysayers? Like everything worth doing, this Voyage began with the need to personally prove something...and grew into a need for the ship to fulfill--at least for a little while--her own desires to do what she was meant to do. That is, sail.
Now, let me be practical: a Voyage like this is not without its high costs--monetarily and in terms of risking the "health" and welfare of the Morgan. As someone who has enjoyed Mystic Seaport and the Morgan for 30 or so years, I can swear that this ship is doing anything but rotting away in Mystic. The Morgan has, since 1941, been luring visitors to the area with visions of the past, immersing minds in history, and offering others a glimpse of what was. Museums in general--like Mystic Seaport and their flagship, the Morgan--can help foster empathy in others because they allow visitors to understand human experiences in a way they may not otherwise. Nothing that can educate in such a powerful, proactive way can ever be called something that is going to waste.
I hope the Voyage encourages visitors of all ages not only to Mystic Seaport but to other museums and locales of history: in the end, all we leave behind are artifacts and, through them, memories. Let us keep the stories of human experience alive so that others may do the same for us.
Mr. Stackpole (and Mystic
C. J. Baptista ConnecticutMr. Stackpole (and Mystic Seaport and all of your selfless, wonderful staff, volunteers, supporters, and fans): thank you for making possible this truly, immeasurably valuable "exercise" in time-travel. I was one of the 38th Voyagers (I left from New Bedford) and even now, more than 1.5 months later, I sense the Morgan in my bones like a ghostly smudge has been left on my body. What better way to honor our past, present, and future than preserving our ancestors' legacies and traditions--and using artifacts the way in which they were intended? Mystic Seaport took a brave, bold, and incredibly necessary gamble in allowing their prized whaleship back into open waters (and to endure both expected and unforeseeable risks due to so many new visitors and territories along the East Coast). I have visited this ship for just over 30 years: never would I have imagined I would find myself, someday, adjusting my body beneath her graceful cresting body. I keep telling others that the 38th Voyage has been “surreal”—and it truly has been, and continues to feel that way. As I work on my project for the 38th Voyage, which will be a poetry collection, I find my words shifting as easily as fog sliced through by the cutting bowsprit, stanzas moving aside to let the ship (and its story) pass. The Morgan was meant to move—and I feel the people who have been fortunate enough to sale on her this summer feel moved, too. Best wishes!
Yes, never say "Never!"
charles ipcar Richmond, MaineYes, never say "Never!"
The good publicity generated by the restoration of this vintage ship and its successful voyage will bring great dividends to the Mystic SeaPort Museum. With careful planning another voyage could be equally successful.
The fellow I spoke with was
Dee Ouchman Isles of LangerhansThe fellow I spoke with was pretty adamant about it never sailing again. The entire story of the C.W.Morgan is fascinating, including it's restoration. I first explored her decks about 45 years ago in Mystic as a child. My family has been both subscribers (every station wagon and Wagoneer we ever owned had a sea port sticker in the rear window) and supporters. After all the money, labor, study, energy, etc. it's practically criminal this was her swansong. I'm so glad and grateful I got to see her in V.H. and spend 1/2 the day amongst the exhibits and asking questions when I could. I get that it's the major draw for Mystic. What I don't get and think is wasteful is only one voyage just to see if it can be done. Well, never say never. They also said she could never sail again when she sat in sand in Mystic.
You have made some very
George MysticYou have made some very strong statements but have you considered the costs involved? It's one thing to raise money for a 38th voyage - the first in years. But doing it again won't have the same draw. Also it's not possible to "sail" out of Mystic as I understand it. The River is too shallow and her ballast was left at New London. So since she has no engine, a tug boat is needed to bring her to New London for that. No ballast = no sailing safely. Not Cheap, and as I understand it, the local Vineyard Tug company donated the tugs for this 38th voyage, Just saying....
The expense of towing to New
Frank Reed Conanicut Island USAThe expense of towing to New London and reloading ballast might possibly be manageable, but there's much more to it than that. The Charles W. Morgan BARELY sailed on the "38th Voyage". It was mostly under tow from port to port, hauled by the Vineyard tug Sirius. I estimate that the total number of hours under independent sail --without tow-- was about 55 (plus or minus 10%) for the entire summer. That's all: 55 hours of sailing. Of the 71 days the vessel was away from Mystic, 20 days were in transit of which 10 days were counted as actual "voyage dates". There were also a number of transit days, training days, and press sailing days just offshore from New London. The vessel never sailed out of sight of land and never sailed after dark (though she was towed through the night with "bare poles" on the last leg back to New London). It's important to recognize that the Charles W. Morgan cannot simply repeat those delightful afternoons among the whales north of Cape Cod on a moment's notice. The Morgan has no engine and would absolutely require a tow, at some considerable expense, to sail again, except for unremarkable day sails in eastern Long Island Sound. So yes, it is likely that she will mostly "rot away" at Mystic Seaport, as wooden vessels are always doing. However, I do believe that some effort will be made to sail her again perhaps in three to five years. She's sailed to the east. Is it time to turn west? Maybe the next voyage should be to the old whaling ports of Long Island and then on to New York City.
She cannot sail from the
Lou Conn.She cannot sail from the Mystic River because its too shallow so her ballast is in New London. The Morgan has no engine, so she would need a TUG (previosly donated by generous V.H. tug boat company) to get back to New London, So there is alot involved people. I doubt the donations would come in again for a 39th and the Seaport needs her there as an exhibit, Don't want to lose admissions. So she is not rotting there, she is beautiful there.
When i heard of the fifst
Lloyd W White Bay Roberts .Newfoundland Canada.When i heard of the fifst voyage after restoration. I had great hopes of seeing the Morgan in port at St John's NL. Seens that it won't happen. So i will have to come to it.
I first heard about the Morgan in a book by Albert Cook Church. ( Whale ships and whaling )Copyright 1938 by W.W. Norton& Company,Inc. And got consumed with the history of the ship. and the photos .Beautyful. Soon i will walk on her deck. Lloyd
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