Danny Larsen, with a tweed flat cap and bristly white mustache, was characteristically gruff Tuesday morning, tossing a few friendly expletives to passersby from the stoop of Edgartown Seafood market.

Meanwhile, behind the weathered fishmonger, three young men — Crockett Cataloni and Jimmy and Andy DiMattia — joined the fray, tempering Mr. Larsen's words and encouraging customers to return for opening day on April 27.

Although young, the three men are familiar faces as longtime employees at the shop. But this season they all have a new title: Owner, having recently purchased the business from Mr. Larsen, following his 36-year tenure behind the counter.

“They’re great workers. If it weren’t for these guys the shop wouldn’t be here now,” Mr. Larsen said. “Most people won’t notice anything changed.”

Mr. Larsen and his wife Marie will retain ownership of the building, and declined to disclose the sale price for the business.

A Chilmark native, Mr. Larsen started Edgartown Seafood in 1987. It was a family affair, with Marie bookkeeping and each of their six children spending time at the counter. His son, Daniel Jr., was a regular fixture but decided not to take over the business.

Jimmy Dimattia (far right) began working at Edgartown Seafood in 2014; Andy DiMattia (far left) and Crocket Cataloni (middle) followed in 2018.

Jimmy Dimattia (far right) began working at Edgartown Seafood in 2014; Andy DiMattia (far left) and Crocket Cataloni (middle) followed in 2018.

“He’s got two daughters, and it’s time consuming,” the elder Danny said, before turning to the new owners. “But these guys, they’re young and they’re smart with money. They are everything I wasn’t.”

Selling to his employees was an easy choice, he said.

“I didn’t want to sell out. I would have felt bad just letting it go.”

By going to his employees first, he was able to ensure it stayed a fish market.

Jimmy was the first of the trio to find employment at the fish market, back in 2014. In 2018, he encouraged his twin brother Andy and Crockett Cataloni, honorary triplet, to join the crew.

“You meet a lot of cool people working here,” said Mr. Cataloni, of the shop’s appeal. “That’s what drew me back the first summer. We had a really good crew and a lot of good people come in here.”

Visits from fishermen and regular shoppers, Andy added, are always a highlight.

“They know everyone’s name and they’ll bring us beers,” he said with a laugh.

Both the DiMattias wore rubber boots Tuesday morning, the same brand but different colors. Dealing with customers is the bulk of a fishmonger’s job, Andy said, and one of the key areas where they have all learned from Mr. Larsen.  

Danny Larsen ran the business with his whole family.

Ray Ewing

Danny Larsen ran the business with his whole family.

Ray Ewing

“He’s helped me not take customers seriously if someone’s being mean,” he said. “Just keep an open mindset."

Daniel Jr. has also been an influence, Jimmy said, teaching them the ins and outs of paperwork and the most efficient ways to break down a fish.

“When you get a 60 or 70-pound halibut, you don’t want to screw it up because everything you leave [on the fish] is money on the table,” Jimmy explained.

The trio said they were put through the ringer during Covid, the first year of the pandemic being one of the busiest times Mr. Larsen could remember.

“That was a very challenging season and it was just us,” Mr. Cataloni said. “Getting through that time, with mainly us three, kind of showed us that we could run this place.”

Mr. Cataloni said they don’t plan to make any big changes just yet.

“We’re going to take it slow,” he said. “We want to keep this place true to what it’s always been. We want to keep it authentic.”

They all acknowledged that Mr. Larsen’s absence at the store will leave a hole in the spirit of Edgartown Seafood.

“We’re going to need a new heckler,” Jimmy exclaimed, and Andy and Crockett agreed. “But we’ll still say the same thing — we’ll just have to tell people ‘The boss is out today.”

Edgartown Seafood reopens for the season on April 27.