<p>From the middle of May until Columbus Day, you can find Hugh and Jeanne Taylor standing side by side cooking breakfast at the Outermost Inn.</p>
From the middle of May until Columbus Day, you can find Hugh and Jeanne Taylor standing side by side cooking breakfast at the Outermost Inn.
“It’s 24/7 for six months a year and then nothing.” Hugh says, with a laugh. “In November we head to a little place in the Bahamas called Elizabeth Island, named after the same queen as our Elizabeth islands here. There we are basically hermits.”
Jeanne nods in agreement as she chops tomatoes for a fresh salsa.
Hugh pauses to take in the view from the kitchen of Vineyard Sound. With his lanky frame and Wrangler jeans, he could be a cowboy surveying the terrain ahead. Instead, he looks around the kitchen: “What else?”
“I’m doing bananas,” Jeanne answers.
“Mondays are when we catch our breath,” she adds. “It’s the only night when we don’t serve dinner. So we don’t have the rush of knowing the night kitchen crew will be arriving on our heels at 10:30 or 11 a.m. to begin dinner prep. On Mondays we do the accounting.”
“Mondays are when we fix stuff,” Hugh says with a sigh.
This reminds Jeanne to remind Hugh to fix one of the inn’s two washing machines. While they use a linen service for the restaurant, they wash all the inn’s towels and sheets.
“It’s perpetual,” Hugh says. “Yes, and I’ve got to fix one of the engines on the boat.”
In addition to owning and operating the Outermost Inn, the Taylors also run the Menemsha Bike Ferry, which takes people and bikes back and forth between Menemsha and West Basin Road in Aquinnah.
“I should have gotten up and taken care of it at five,” Hugh says, speaking of the washing machine.
Chantal Booker, one of the inn’s breakfast servers, enters and puts down an order on the steel kitchen prep table. Hugh proudly reports that she has just graduated from the University of New Hampshire and is soon headed to Portland, Me., to work as a clinical chemist.
“A long way from breakfast at the Outermost Inn,” Hugh says. “Chantal has been with us forever.”
Jeanne reads the order and resumes chopping cilantro from the inn’s garden for the salsa. Hugh starts cracking eggs into a bowl. “We alternate egg days and batter days,” Jeanne says. “Today is an egg day.”
Today they are making scrambled eggs, potato cakes, tomato salsa, fruit (with or without sorbet), toast and a few greens from the garden. Hugh and Jeanne have been running the Outermost Inn for 26 years and have been together for most of their lives. They both recall meeting each other at the Chilmark Community Center when they were between the ages of six and eight. When Hugh was 15 he dropped out of high school and he and Jeanne, who was 17 at the time, moved in together for the summer. They’ve been together ever since. “It’s ridiculous isn’t it?” Hugh says. “All I can say is that Jeanne is a saint.” “First we lived in a camp at Dilly’s,” Hugh continues. “Then we spent some time on Larsen Lane in Menemsha, then we got to live in Amos Smalley’s house for a couple of winters. That is what got us in the door up here. I was on the zoning committee up here when I was 19. There was a planner, an academic guy named Kevin Lynch up in Boston, who held my hand in creating the early zoning bylaws. People used to come from all over to see the Gay Head town meetings. It was wild. Fox News would have loved it.”
Jeanne’s dad, Don Smith, enters the kitchen. He comes by every morning for coffee. Jeanne greets him with a kiss and his coffee.
“He’ll be 90 on August 1,” Hugh says. “I’m not sure he was so happy about me being Jeanne’s boyfriend back in the day. Shacking up with that hippie. But we’re good now.”
Don sits down at the staff meal table, which also serves as the staging area for dinner service, and Jeanne joins him for a short visit.
Daughter Alexandra arrives next, greets her grandfather and parents and heads to the flour bin. She lives across the road with her husband Shaun McPhail and their twin daughters, Olive and Violet McPhail. Alexandra works as the office manager for the Martha’s Vineyard Public Charter School, and also manages the Outermost restaurant. Jeanne asks after the girls. Alexandra says they want to make pancakes and she’s out of flour. Jeanne laughs and says that sometimes her granddaughters will come over and pretend to be guests, ordering room service from one of the vacant rooms.
Alexandra grabs a yogurt container and scoops some flour into it. Then Alison Mead, the inn’s hostess and front desk manager, arrives. Alison, Jeanne and Alexandra discuss dinner reservations. So far, they have 84 or 85 people for dinner the following night. The phone rings. It is Isaac, Hugh and Jeanne’s son. He’s calling his dad about the broken motor on the bike ferry. They chat for a few moments about fuel pumps, lawnmowers and speculating about what they can use to fix the bike ferry’s engine.
“Isaac is great with machines,” Hugh says after hanging up. “He helps out so much with the cars, boats and the inn.”
Isaac and his wife Noli and their two children Tillie and Emmett also live across the street from the inn, next door to his sister.
“A stream runs between our two properties, but we have a bridge running over the stream,” Alexandra says. “The kids are back and forth between the houses all the time.”
Hugh spots another worker, Troy Vanderhoop, loping across the rolling lawn. He yells out a good morning. “If it seems like we have a lot of help around here, it’s because we do,” Hugh says. “The inn business is labor intensive.”
Before opening the Outermost, Hugh says he did a little bit of everything. “I worked on houses as a carpenter, scalloped, cod fished, did some sea clamming.”
Jeanne and Hugh also ran what is now the Chilmark Store for a few years.
“When Clarissa’s [Allen] mom still managed it,” Hugh says. “We had a great time there. Then we built the first iteration of this in ’75. David Douglas designed it. It was 24 by 16 times 2. What’s that? About 800 square feet? We didn’t think about things like orientation. The front door is in the wind. It’s a hippie house.”
In 1988, when Hugh and Jeanne decided to open an inn, they did a major renovation. “We took it completely apart, took the roof off and everything. We had an army of guys helping us get it done.” Hugh names nearly a dozen friends who helped with everything from the fir frame to the floors.
“It’s still relatively modest,” Hugh says. “Only 3,500 square feet. And we do something every year to keep it updated. New bathrooms. Air conditioning. Fresh paint.”
Jeanne estimates that 80 to 85 per cent of their fall guests are return visitors and about 50 per cent of their summer guests are returning.
“One of the couples here this morning has been coming for at least 10 years,” Jeanne says as she arranges greens from the inn’s garden on two plates of eggs and potatoes.
Admiring his wife’s work Hugh jokes: “It’s all smoke and mirrors. Our chef Christopher Gianfreda is the real deal.”
Chantal brings dirty plates in and Hugh jumps on dishwashing duty. Jeanne begins to wipe down the counters. It’s a relatively quiet morning and breakfast service is almost done. She sips coffee. He nibbles on a bit of cheese.
“We snack as we go until dinner,” Hugh explains.
“I love Monday nights,” Jeanne says. “Because we have no dinner service I can use this kitchen. Although I think Alexandra has some sort of wine tasting thing here at six.”
Tonight Jeanne plans on making a simple pasta with a meat sauce. “But most nights” she says, “we finish up with guests and go downstairs and hide in our apartment.”
Hugh walks down a hall to check on Alison who is working at the front desk and points out the “wall of shame” which is really a bunch of family photos — from grandmothers to siblings and grandchildren. He pauses at a picture of his mother Trudy at her home on Stonewall Pond. “She got to die there,” he says.
Hugh turns back to Alison and they discuss the day’s arrivals while Jeanne begins to tackle the week’s timesheets and bills at the staff table in the kitchen. Hugh finds her and sits down. They talk about everything from Open Table, which the Inn recently started using, to waterskiing and why they have a no children policy.
“In our first year, we had a few families with children and the children showed up in the kitchen at about 6 a.m. and wreaked havoc while their parents slept,” Hugh says. “Meanwhile we were trying to cook breakfast for 20 or 30 people.
“We can’t childproof a commercial kitchen,” Jeanne adds. “Obviously, we love kids, but it was too much.”
Kitchen cleaned, bills settled and staff organized, Jeanne heads to check in with the cleaning crew and Hugh goes to Isaac’s house for a fuel pump for the boat. Then he drives to the West Basin to meet up with Buck Reidy, today’s bike ferry captain, and fix the engine.
When he arrives, the engine is miraculously working. Hugh is delighted. He designed the boat and this summer is its maiden season. So far he is happy with it, particularly the way it moves across the channel, but he still has some kinks to work out. He wants the loading ramp to fit onto the dock more seamlessly and the awning got punctured during transport.
He and Buck are both happy to be on the water, shuttling families back and forth. “It’s the best,” Hugh says, gazing at the scene of boats, water and wildlife.
Hugh explains how the bike ferry came to be: “I approached the selectman about the idea of a bike ferry. They said I had to get a survey done and draw up a lease. So I called Ron Rappaport and Glen Provost and it turns out that when the town of Chilmark and Aquinnah — somewhere around 1915 — dredged the waterway, both sides of channel were in Aquinnah. The town line runs from the middle of the channel into the rocks, sweeping around two fishing shacks and then back down into the water. So the ferry actually just runs from one part of Aquinnah to the other.”
Now Hugh is thinking about pursuing a water taxi business from Menemsha to New Bedford. He’s found a boat, but he hasn’t worked out all the angles yet. “It’s something I can do for 10 more years and then let Isaac run it,” he says.
The bell for the ferry rings from the West Basin. Hugh heads over to pick up a grandmother and grandchild. “I used to have a big bell that I found on a beach on Naushon, but someone stole it. Now I have a smaller one that I put away at night.”
His phone rings. It’s Jeanne. Hugh looks at his watch and makes two more runs across the channel. He looks at Buck. “She’s pretty good isn’t she? Two motors, like the hand of God assisting you.”
Buck grins.
Satisfied that all is well with the boat, Hugh prepares to head back to the inn. “Okay, time to go fix the washing machine.”

Comments
Awesome family and awesome
Pamela Dolby EdgartownAwesome family and awesome restaurant ... it is always a treat to enjoy a meal at the outermost!
Great article! Hugh and
Tom Hutnak Greenville Rhode IslandGreat article! Hugh and Jeanne are the real deal.
Hugh, Thank You for years of
Rob Hunting Valley OhioHugh, Thank You for years of smiles and kindness as my family frequented your unique time capsule, your endless time spent with our sons in trying to master the “ Ring / Hook Game” are life memories. God Bless and Continued Success.
The Ring Hook Game!!!!! As I
Tim Doyle Yorba Linda, CAThe Ring Hook Game!!!!! As I was reading this story I wondered if the game was still there. Very addicting as is the whole Outtermost Inn experience. Great views, staff and scenery. Can't wait to go back.
What a great article about
Alison Vernon North CarolinaWhat a great article about two wonderful people and their beautiful Inn.
On my very first moment on
Jane Tenenbaum Cambridge, MAOn my very first moment on the island (1962), whom should I meet at the ferry but Hugh Taylor and (my family's friend) Josh Wiesner. Hugh and Josh were barefoot, so my brother and I took off our shoes and went with them to Stonewall beach. We had to pretend that our feet weren't killing us!!
Fabulous article that
Susan N 'TisFabulous article that captures the spirit of this amazing family and the best inn and restaurant on the island. It is truly a magical place for me and my family.
Congratulations a happy great piece.
We have known this wonderful
Liz and Joe Revil Bridgewater, MAWe have known this wonderful family for over 30 years and have always been impressed, and amazed at how ingenious Hugh is, and how patient and affable Jeanne is. They are just so warm and caring, and our only regret is that we cant get over there as often as we'd like.
It indeed has been a pleasure
Hedy Felice Pa.It indeed has been a pleasure to know Jeannie and Hugh. Met them on a small Island in the Bahamas while we were taking a break from our restaurant of 40 yrs as they were doing the same from their Inn. Wonderful couple to be with.
This is a beautiful article
Gail Collette Northborough, MAThis is a beautiful article about a beautiful family and a very special place. Hugh and Jeanne are gracious and welcoming. Their inn is a wonderful place. My husband and I have been going there for many years. Looking forward to seeing everyone in September!
Is there still a mural in one
Sue Cooper-Street St. Petersburg, FlIs there still a mural in one of the guest rooms, painted by Thomas Street ? I was the innkeeper at the Daggett House in Edgartown and loved it when Thomas came home after a day of painting---he had so many laughs and such fun ---something I will never forget !
My wife and I stayed at the
Timothy Doyle Los Angeles, CAMy wife and I stayed at the Outtermost Inn AND the Dagger House in the late 80s. Our room there was entered by a moveable bookshelf in the basement. One night things got very loud in the room and I'll leave it at that. We live near Disneyland and they have the famed Haunted House there but it doesn't hold a candle to the fun we had there!
Was treated to a fine and
Penel Aquidneck Island RIWas treated to a fine and relaxed diner last summer at the Outermost. Comfortable, Delicious, Low Key everything a vacation spot should be. Lovers it!
We had a family dinner for
Jayne Andron Wayne, PAWe had a family dinner for the first time at the inn this June in celebration of my 70th birthday. The meal was wonderful and the evening one that we hope to repeat next year. Many thanks to Hugh and Jeanne!
What a perfect match! A
Walter Robinson Hudson New YorkWhat a perfect match! A priceless gift. I have a fond memory of when Hugh and Jeannie gave me a round trip ride in a school bus with my up right double bass from the vineyard to the newport folk festival. What loving souls! Keep up the great vibe!
Love Hugh & Jeanne and the
Anna Smith Nashville, TNLove Hugh & Jeanne and the OMI, many happy memories made there. Sadly haven’t been in a few years but definitely plan to go back. Hugh and Jeanne are more than just people running a fantastic B&B, they are friends who always make you feel welcomed, warm and comforted!
Ace of compliments: Back a
David Tenenbaum Madison, Wis.Ace of compliments: Back a few years, I was piloting my sail-only Dyer Dhow down-channel toward West Basin, hooking the dangerous left, skirting the rock, then the quick right, into the slot between the two docks. Sails droped, a perfect landing, though dicey., with barely a loving caress between the Dhow and the dock. And laconic Hugh, sidewalk superintending the procedure as he leaned on the rail, above, allowed, “Nice landing, Dave.”
Though we met 55 years ago, I was not sure he knew my name. But nice work with the ferry, the Arabella, and the Inn.
We are one the families that
maria and hugh thomas oakville, canadaWe are one the families that have been returning each year celebrating my summer birthday on the vineyard with a wonderful dinner at the inn and last year when we returned at the end of summer picking up our daughter after working all summer at the CBC, Jeanne and Hugh made us feel so at home We love Outermost inn, it's a family tradition and a magical place thank you
Great article. Beautiful
Dave Chapel Hill NCGreat article. Beautiful story
It is a beautiful stretch of
Dick AquinnahIt is a beautiful stretch of land, and relationships, Jeanne and Hugh have managed up there on the cliffs. But, damn, do I miss the demolition derbies.
Are you referring to the
Christine Powers WalthamAre you referring to the Columbus Day Crunch?
Great people that I have the
Anthony Brummel ChicagoGreat people that I have the pleasure of knowing in the bush! One in a million. Need more people like them.
I looked at the photo of Hugh
Mary Jane Hills HarwichI looked at the photo of Hugh and see the image of his Dad. Isaac. Worked for Dr Taylor in the 70’s in Boston and he would tell me about his son and how proud he was of him. Thanks for sharing this article.
Great family, great dining
Ted Morgan New OrleansGreat family, great dining experience, very special place!
This is our favorite dinner
Mike & Carolyn Hilton Littleton, MAThis is our favorite dinner spot on the island! It simply can't be beat! Thank you Hugh & Jeanne for sharing your spot.
Terrific article about an a
Melanie and Paul Wagner Vineyard HavenTerrific article about an a very special inn and the inn keepers who make it that way. One could not ask for more gracious and caring hosts. We are most fortunate to be able to call Hugh and Jeanne our friends and proud of all that they have accomplished.
We love you, Hughie and
Max Butler LAWe love you, Hughie and Jeanne!
A real treat!
Vito & Carol Priore EdgartownA real treat!
We truly miss the ARABELLA!
Two of the best bosses I've
David Biller BrazilTwo of the best bosses I've ever had. Was a joy to wait tables there!
In 2013, My husband and I
Meg AquinnahIn 2013, My husband and I spent Labor Day weekend looking for homes and used the Outermost Inn as our beautiful base. Everyday we would come back to the “dogfish”bar out back with notes and Hugh would check in on our day’s search. We told him how we found the most magical place on Oxcart road. Hugh said he knew Oxcart quite well prompting me to ask.. well what’s wrong with it? He stared out at the Orange sky across the water, gently turned and said “not a damn thing”. Now he is my neighbor and they have remained the best place to eat or get inspiration.
Note: rumor has it the dogfish bar at the outermost inn was dug up from the real dogfish beach bar.
1998 was my first visit to
Anna Smith Nashville TN1998 was my first visit to MVY and the lovely Outermost Inn. I was hooked, I went back for 10 straight years. It's been 12 long years since I've been able to make it back to visit with Hugh and Jeanne but I'll be back again some day. Once you've experienced the beauty of the Vineyard and the warm, comforting, loving vibe that is the Outermost Inn you always long to return. 2020, here I come, I hope. Much love to Hugh and Jeanne and the entire crew at the OMI.
Great article! We visited the
Rich Feeley Ocala, FlGreat article! We visited the Inn many years ago when we vacationed on the Vineyard, and owned a home in Edgartown. I’m guessing the reference to camping at Dilly’s was of our old friend Dilly Walsh, (RIP) who I went to college with, and spent many a crazy time on the island with. We miss the Vineyard.
Have enjoyed your Inn many
Lou & Penny Prapotnik Mesquite,NvHave enjoyed your Inn many times and miss Jeanne's mom and dad, Don and Pat. They were good friends and Don was really a character. He did a great job on the bike ferry!
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